August 22, 2008

Dave Matthews Band @ Staples Center, Los Angeles 8/19

在第一首歌結束後,從Dave Matthews口中得知再也無法親臨原汁原味DMB現場的壞消息──大衛馬修樂團的founding member之一,薩克斯風手LeRoi Moore在這天下午過世。主要原因還是六月底在農場的一起意外,導致19日傍晚時刻意外地離開了這個世界。當Dave Matthews在台上宣布這個消息時,我還一度認為自己英文太破聽錯了。





一大早起床先驅車前往Century City和一個craiglist上賣票的傢伙碰面,一開始高速公路還算順暢,直到接上10號整個堵到不行。他上班的地點位在兩棟很壯觀的摩天大樓Century Plaza Towers(沒記錯的話),停車超級貴的沒記錯20分鐘就要十幾塊美金,還好他可以幫我弄到一個小時的parking permit。才一個早上就見識到了LA恐怖的交通和高消費。

當然大老遠來到市區畢竟還是要找機會走走,聽了Ivy學姐說有個叫做The Grove的mall頗特別。坐落於戶外而且很漂亮。於是用過簡單brunch後憑著絕佳方向感搭配手工地圖前往。果不其然相當美麗,類似舊城區的街道的風格相當舒適,裡頭店家的消費也是相當具水準。

出門在外最需要的就是網路。很幸運的這而有家Apple Store,便順手查了一下附近有啥地方適合打發演唱會開唱前的時間。結果當然查來查去最後當然是樂器行雀屏中選......

據說這家是全美GC的總店。姑且不論是否有此一說法,論規模日落大道這家真的比我去過的其他四間(San Francisco, San Jose, San Bernadino and Rancho Cucamonga)大上許多。而且別具特色的entrance更是和Hollywood中國戲院前那一片地磚相呼應!

為數眾多族繁不及備載,總之熱愛音樂的朋友相當值得一來! 會有很親切的感覺(這裡我認識的似乎比中國戲院前的還多一些)。當然門面氣派店裡也是馬虎不得。不但占地之廣大,最特別的是還有一個Vintage專區! 所有的樂器都是'70以前的老琴,以Fender和Gibson居多,也有一些RickenBacker。重點這些每把都動輒$4000以上甚至上萬的老傢伙,為數之多竟比全台灣大部分樂器行,所有的展示琴加起來還多! 每一把Telecaster的maple指板都是又黃又舊,卻各有不同的陳年風味。說是這兒是小博物館真的不誇張(而且這些老琴還可以親手來試!)

離開了吉他中心當然就是一路塞車塞到Staples Center。LA市區的交通實在恐怖,好像無時無刻都是heavy traffic。不過幸運的是我仍在六點左右抵達,並且找到一個相當棒的parking, flat rate $10! (停好車走出來馬上漲到$15,噗)

演唱會當然毫無疑問的相當棒。除了聽到台上宣布LeRoi離開大家的壞消息有點難過,整場演出Dave和其他團員依然賣力演出,像是想送LeRoi最後一程,讓他能夠在有音樂的伴奏下離開。今晚的setlist其實我個人覺得普通,因為我喜歡的一些曲子如#41, Jimi Thing, Warehouse和Gravedigger都是第二天才出現 orz 但是幸好還是有聽到久違的Ants Marching現場。


Dave溫暖的歌聲配上技巧高超的樂手們層次分明的伴奏,只能說完全就是比想像中還要好聽呢。更不用說現場每首曲子皆會加入出乎意料的即興,每首歌都Jam成原曲的加長版。這次tour也找來的Dave Matthews搭配已久的好友Tim Reynolds負責電吉他的部分,開場地一曲Bartender就是Taylor 和 Fender 的12弦琴互相交織著,聲音更加飽滿,後台的技師也直呼換弦好累 XD 值得一提的是舞台設計不算太特殊,但後頭的電視牆超級清楚解析度超高,就算不是最前面的觀眾也可以把樂手的表情看得一清二楚。

隔天這場gig毫無意外上了許多媒體頭條,足見LeRoi和Dave Matthews Band在美國人心中的地位。我想從團員的組成到音樂風格都充滿了diversity,也算是美國精神和文化的一部份。當晚代打LeRoi的Jeff Coffin(Bela Flack的樂手)功力老實說個人覺得有過之而無不及,但原汁原味的大衛馬修樂團也在今天走入歷史。想起多少場live演出的影片中,那個身影和熟悉的notes將無法再被重製。不過至少我確實參與到的歷史的一瞬間吧? 整場演出Dave的話沒有很多,一切的情緒都在音樂裡了。如果你也和我一樣在現場,相信一定也會感受到的。

Rest In Peace, LeRoi Moore.

August 12, 2008

Bloc Party @ The Glass House, Pomona 7/28 (2)


Bloc Party was simply awesome.





Still remember the very first song I heard from them was This Modern Love. The guitar was beautiful (since I've been always want a Fender Telecaster.) And when it comes to the vocal, Kele did amazing job. Every words was so honest like coming from the bottom of the heart, simply catchy and outstanding. Then not to mention other hits from the album Silent Alarm. Although due to the military service restriction, I'm not that familiar with the second album. Yet their show won't disappointed me, even though the bassist Gordon is not able to join this tour. I'm so sure of that.

During the half an hour setting, me and Ashleigh kept on talking about the instruments on stage. Such as, “oh do you see Russell's Tele? So many cute stickers on the pickguard! man!......” Yeah almost crazy because we're so close to the stage and can see everything. Can't believe we're freaking close to a band like Bloc Party but not a small local band in town. I also found Matt's setlist stick onto the amp or something besides him. Yet it's too far so we can only tell there's about 10~15 songs, which is totally not enough!!

I don't know how to describe the excitement of the crowd. But After the first notes drop of Waiting For The 7.18, all we can do is enjoy it and follow the music. It's like Kele took us to somewhere that we've never been to. Just like Prince, Black can always have different touch in Rock, which is unique and with tension. Then is Hunting For Witches, one of my favorite from the second album. Russel's doing guitar effect, then Matt's solid drumming. The lyrics is also cool and full of attitude. Maybe Bloc Party can be categorized as some kind of post-punk/disco-punk band like other hypes, somehow the lyrics and attitude will be a lot different though. After the warm and sweet Blue Light comes their world famous single Banquet. I'm probably the only one who can't sing along really well, haha.

When people were getting a little tired, songs which is not so popular can just let us stop pushing and shoving then relax a bit. Then it's my personal favorite So Here We Are and This Modern Love, between them was the new single Mercury. Honestly, I dunno it's because the new song was pinch in between two of my Bloc Party favorites, or just because I'm still not that familiar with it, it seems mediocre to me. I mean there are not too much surprise in it, when you compares to Flux, one of my best single of 2007.(The music video is also EPIC!) Anyway, to see This Modern Love Live is really a dream come true. I've been watching it on Youtube and Austin City Limits' DVD for hundreds of times. It's better than in any recording. If it were not for I'm sweaty and stinky, it's a must-cry song for me lol.

The Encore, they perform 4 songs, which everyone was so familiar with it of course. Among the four songs, two of them totally showed us the crazy drumming from Matt. From the first verse of Positive Tension, you can easily found that every notes were so grooving with Kele's vocal, then layer by layer comes the chours, “Run run run run run run~”, amazing. Not to say the live got even better. Flux is so great with sharp tone of post-punk guitar and accelerated synth beats. I told Ashleigh that I love Kele's British accent in the final chours, “We need to Talk~” lol.

Finally is the Matt's drumming masterpieces Like Eating Glass and simply last song Helicopter. Frankly not only Ashleigh was disappointed with it when Kele's guitar splash (For she's hoping to hear Skeleton all night), I was also not satisfied with Helicopter as the ending song. Because there seems to be some problem without Gordon's bass or something. The chours was a bit empty though, which means it suddenly lost tension(especially it comes with such a killer guitar riff intro!). However, Like Eating Glass was too good and make everything worth it. I can say it's the best song of the night. Everyone was dragged into the music. So much passion and love stretching from the music. Absolutely moved me sooooo much.


Me and Ashleigh both bought a T-shirt after the gig. Too bad the new single was still unavailable, which Ashleigh want it badly. But she got Matt's setlist, which was found by me before the show lol. It's a pity that they skip some songs whcih I really want to hear like Pioneer. But anyway what a wonderful night! It's so great that I almost can't write something for it. Beyond the words, live magic is the best remedy for boring, suffer life =) I'm so lucky to have support from Ashleigh, especially we share same taste of music. She's so sweet and such a nice person. After all is the great Bloc Party, this is a couldn't be better start for a new life. Thank you guys.











Flux + Like Eating Glass


Matt's setlist

August 11, 2008

Bloc Party @ The Glass House, Pomona 7/28 (1)


It's really an unexpected show. I feel so lucky that I was there.





After the summer schedule was all set and done. I did a little research for the local venue of Riverside. However, it sucked the big suck. The truth is that LA do have a large market of gig-goer, but when it comes to business, they were all limited in the central LA county or O.C. Well, it's not big deal after all, since I'm here for my graduate study. Getting a degree and learning computer science is the first priority. So I can totally accept it. It's not like in the Bay Area which is so close to San Jose and has fast and convenient transportation to downtown SF and Berkeley. Still, I found a venue call The Glass House in Pomona, which is not that far from UCR. There're great artists have been there, such as Explosion in the Sky, Rilo Kiley, Ladytron, Blonde Redhead and Dashboard Confessional. Take a glance at the show schedule, not bad. Finch, Tokyo Police Club, CSS, Vampire Weekend and....BLOC PARTY!!!

Jeez! I can't believe that there's a chance to see such a festival-headline like Bloc Party in a small venue. From the pics on its official website, it's probably smaller than The Fillmore in SF. However, the problem is how can I get home after the show? And How can I get a single ticket when the show's already sold out? (Especially when the scalpers on eBay rip-off badly.)

I knew Craiglist will be my last chance. Unfortunately there's little tickets there, seems that all the ticket holders are real fans. That's cool for notorious SoCal scene, haha. Anyway I posted an add and didn't expect any response. But things always happen when you don't expect much. A girl called Ashleigh, who is a die-hard fan of Bloc Party, accidentally got a spare ticket and willing to give me a ride as long as I can pay the gas. I almost think that I was punk'd or something when I receive the call, seriously. Anyway, big band in small venue, I know it's like dream come true!!

I took Metrolink train to Pomona in the afternoon. BTW, the repeated scenery outside the window somehow reminds me the music video of Star Guitar by The Chemical Brothers.



When I got there, Ashleigh was already there. And there's Alex, we talked something pointless which I can barely remember before the show, haha. They are really nice people. then of course, we did heard something during the rehearsal. There's new single Mercury and other old stuff. Ashleigh'd love to see them do Skeleton, but I've check the setlist of Fuji Rock and don't think they'll do it. Doesn't matter, because we're pretty early and looks like we can made it the front row dead center!

Alex w/ the hard ticket.


the line, all the way to the end.


Doors 7:00pm, but the show 9:00pm!! All fans were kept waiting and freaking starved to dead. Hopefully, Does It Offend You, Yeah? took the stage first and they're really cool. I heard them from Nine Inch Nails' tour sampler. Just like Crystal Castle and Deerhunter, they join the tour and support NIN as well. Really have to say that both Trent Renzor and Bloc Party choose the right band. The twisted synth sound with grooving beats made their music like Daft Punk meet Hot Chip, and maybe perform a bit like LCD Soundsystem.



Anyway their stuff was excited and everybody was dancing. I love the black guitarist's outfit, totally old school/disco/'80 feeling. The Last song was the hit, "We Are Rockstars." The crowd simply went crazy. So many sweaty chicks around me pushing and shoving. I felt so like a perv...but still enjoy the music, not chicks, of course lol.

We Are Rockstars

July 15, 2008

Taiwan Finale


2008年夏天,象山遠眺台北101。

離開家鄉的單程機票意味著終點不明的旅程。也許目標一直是在那的,但是中間的過程卻是未知。不知道會否有個令人滿意的結果,秉著繼續前進的信念,這樣子的邁開步伐。



This is the last shot, seriously.

June 19, 2008

久違的漢口佳佳

離開一段時間,其中最想念的莫過於幾個熟悉的落腳處。


趁著吃飽飯去台北車站面交演算法課本(終於把你贖回來了 orz)順道去了趟漢口佳佳。其實真得是很用心經營的一家唱片行,把Indie Artists擺在比流行歌手更顯眼的唱片行委實不多,然後原來夢露的阿霈自己發專輯了,想當年看她們只是和構陷一樣參加Yamaha熱音賽而且都是被刷掉的團,現在主唱都出道當大明星的感覺了。不過封面實在有待加強就是,刺激買氣頗嫌不足。

此外也真的覺得佳佳的buyer(胖老闆?)非常用心。很多好東西都很齊全,絕不偏頗時下流行的後搖花草鞋子瞪瞪電台頭頭。石廟嚮導幽浮一族珍珠果醬工具盲音九吋釘無一不缺(或表示買氣低落沒人帶走orz)而且價格也是很實在合理,連國外一些Indie-Pop樂團好比Rilo Kiley狼媽媽都有得買最重要的是東西很新很同步,架上顯眼主打好比DCFC或Jason Mraz也大都是認真好貨。

這讓我想起來幾個禮拜前去敦南誠品正巧有位看似好野很有life的歐巴桑在結帳她應該是買類似歌劇或是古典的套裝CD之類,不會很便宜還有打折那種。總之價格出來近六百元,她大呼好貴唷。櫃台的兩個傢伙就跟她說台灣CD很便宜了拉,國外隨便CD都要五、六百塊哩! 歐巴桑被唬得一愣一愣又呼是喔是喔。我當下聽到心中那股打倒萬惡美帝資本主義的左派怒火不禁熊熊燃起湊過去插嘴說道國外也不是所有CD都很貴吧....?他們兩個聽到當然像唱雙簧一般挖靠小鬼你不懂啦我那麼善良怎麼會騙你。我馬上接著說我前天才剛從美國回來他們Wilco的洋基旅館雙CD特價才$9.99耶,一般流行搖滾CD也很少超過$15 (which is the great Eslite's average price)

然後他們碎碎念後就不理我了,好似戴了小叮噹的石頭帽子把我這個客人當空氣挖勒。連我後來問她們現在撥放的soulfly 是新專輯嘛都愛理不理裝沒聽到呢,顆顆。

總之自從誠品會員卡制度改變成聯名信用卡,早該認清商人就是利益擺前頭。其實完全不是說這樣不對,我還是很喜歡誠品,商業行為本是必要之惡。只是自己賣的貴就唬爛客人你沒見過世面。我真的無法做到如此hypocrite。也許這也是提醒我該好好認命當工程師而非從商從政賺大錢。有穩定工作有音樂聽簡單生活就該滿足 orz


PS:附帶一提,佳佳現在有一系列大特價,包括綠洲在內很多都299。少部分像是原始吶喊的Screamadelica下殺249。Boom Boom Satellites的On甚至只要199!有興趣的人可以去挑挑看~

June 12, 2008

Youtube開始提供高畫質(HQ)的服務內容!? (更新:請愛用HD高畫質影片!)

前些日子好像開始了這樣子的服務,以之前去看Foo Fighters的那場演出Marigold & My Hero為例,請選高品質觀賞,便可享用頂級盜撮。全新的youtube給你截然不同耳目一新的體驗。(雖然還是比Stage6爛超級多,divx rules!)


稍微逛了國外網站目前也仍未找出下載高畫質影片的方法。不過若是要內嵌使用,很簡單只要在embed的code後面加上

&ap=%2526fmt%3D18

簡簡單單的reference,但是我完全不了解這串code有啥意思就是了...(fmt可能代表frame數?)

update 05/30/2009
:Youtube早已開始提供HD高清畫質的影片,若對於保存這類HD影片有興趣,個人認為最方便的solution如下:

1. 利用KeepHD這個網站找尋影片所在網址的服務,找
到“Enter Youtube URL”並將網址複製貼上
2. 許多不同格式可供你保存,當然選擇“MP4 High Quality”
3. 直接點擊或是另存目標下載皆可,繼得抓下來之後更改檔名方便整理。

June 09, 2008

小白熊電台 @ The Wall, 台北 6/8


很好聽。可惜我第一次聽見她們竟然就是最後一次公開演出 orz

許多首歌都讓我聯想起Postal Service,但是卻不是純然的電民謠,很多曲子的旋律都不落俗套。雖然這位太太的cover的確如主唱說得亂玩一通,哈。我想她們主唱奕璇之後個人的創作仍值得期待。之前幫歐比王寫Incubus的review時就有喵到她寫著Zero7細膩的文字,相當有sense(而且本人超害羞可愛的 呵)。

遇到小倩也很開心,她氣色很好。而且在場一堆同學就像是中正同學會的感覺,頗羨慕的。



然後還是要謝謝活躍的這牆宣傳瑩娃,我終於把借了四五年的珊妮還妳了。謝謝妳的長島冰茶,若是妳有機會來LA一定要告訴我噢。

June 03, 2008

旺福 @ The Wall, 台北 5/31


雖然飛機才剛落地不到24小時,但好朋友 + 好音樂完全是抵擋不住的誘惑。The Wall這個再熟悉不過的場館,再熟悉不過的旺福演出。

之前在Davis念書的小宇同學難得北上,於是便拉了瓶一道跟了小潘的行程。想當年還是大一小朋友的時候去唱歌,就是聽了潘彥捷同學驚豔到不行的小綿羊,自此莫名其妙因緣際會看了一堆旺福現場(她們應該是我看過最多次現場的台灣樂團),說不是歌迷道也一路聽來至今。雖說女主唱的更替加上大廠簽約後整體精緻化的轉變,不見得是所有熱愛“我們小時候都去Spin”“新幹線”的老歌迷都可以輕易接受並且依然跟隨。但毫無疑問的是,小民的現場魅力仍堪稱台灣獨立樂團同儕間的翹楚,從演出前的大排長龍便可以了解。


小民在第一個set的造型相當Jamiroquai,大帽子整個就是討喜,幾乎可以嗅出這是場很精心準備的演出。可惜的是大概耳朵被國外良好的音響系統寵壞,一開始肚皮勁道十足的鼓聲竟然聽來刺耳不堪!?特別是hi-hat之刺耳簡直招架不住,所幸後來有所調整。只是當獨立樂團蓬勃發展的同時,其硬體設備和專業技術人員的成長似乎還差一大截。希望哪天在自己家也能聽到超水準的音場(我喜歡小場館阿!)

setting中的等待,大家都愛自拍

小宇,小潘,瓶


就在大家都期待著弟二個set會有甚麼特別嘉賓時(很多人猜廣仲,我也頗想看他的live),沒想到布幕拉開出現的竟然是...John Lennon小民版 囧


接下來整場就在約翰藍儂角色扮演和旺福小民之間切換。其實頗有趣的,而且Beatles的老歌cover也不算太壞。只是這場的廢話時在有點多到無趣加上我又開始嚴重時差,到最後實在睏死了 還被紀婕宇質疑“這麼吵你也睡得著!?” orz


平心而論,這場演出誠屬持平之作。至少不及先前和張懸及熊寶貝在信義區公民會館那場演出。當然滿場的歌迷仍相當捧場所以氣氛仍然很好,想想有這樣忠實的樂迷支持,真是幸福押。也許有時候只要你堅持著,終究會通到想去的地方吧。

June 01, 2008

The Cure/65daysofstatic @ HP Pavilion, San Jose 5/28

雖然自認不是The Cure的死忠歌迷,但英國團來美國巡迴演出總是有機會難得的感覺。加上這次北美暖場團65daysofstatic算是個人相當喜歡的一支後搖滾樂團,更大大增加了前往欣賞動力。由於開賣一早人不在電腦前,打定主意後便委託好友小倩準時在Ticketmaster搶下了San Jose場次的票。


第二次來到HP Pavilion這個平時為Hockey使用的球館。和先前的經驗差不多,為數可觀的黃牛壟斷了不少好位子的票,因此65daysofstatic準時七點半登場時入座觀眾不到七成。扣掉場面不夠熱絡,其實他們的確也不那麼適合在大型場館演出。但回歸音樂本身,這幾個傢伙不論是現場演出的力道還是態度均屬上乘。在不錯的硬體及音控加持下,原本CD裡的綿密吉他音牆變得更為攝人。鍵盤的每一個音符和流動的貝斯完美融合,再佐以punch十足的鼓擊,不若某些後搖滾等待大爆炸可能會有的沉悶,每一刻都是動聽的瞬間。而且話不多的他們,將全部的精力投注於演出;樂手們完全享受在音樂中的肢體律動,讓這個僅三十分鐘的暖場更加印象深刻,並且更加的希望以後能夠親臨他們自己的場子。
The Cure的setting相當快速準時,在滿坐觀眾均魚貫入場後開唱。一如專輯中常用的intro手法,氣勢蓬勃的鍵盤音色搭配清澈的吉他聲響開場。年已半百的Robert Smith一開口便讓滿場觀眾陶醉;歌德扮相依舊但身材走樣發福的他,在歌聲中絲毫沒有歲月的痕跡。從他口中哼唱出的一字一句仍然是那樣輕鬆的征服大家的耳朵。Disintegration專輯的幾首名曲集中在前半場出現(包含開場的Plainsong),那自溺陰沉卻又不時透出一絲光明的誨暗氛圍瞬間把全場的時光倒流。聽著Prayers For Rain,Pictures of you與Lovesong,頓時青少年的苦澀與甘甜似乎就在眼前倒帶,讓人為之動容。

如此前輩級的傳奇樂團,新歌比重不大是可以預期,不過The Only One這首順耳又流暢的新曲畢竟還是沒有缺席。已經不再青春的Robert Smith高唱青春無敵仍是感染力十足,聽著聽著都會覺得,在又老又胖的軀殼內,應該還是裝著20歲年輕人的靈魂吧? 真是太不可思議了。當然,除了目光焦點的主唱,其餘的樂手表現也是毫無疑問的優秀。特別是這樣搶耳的歌聲,要是樂器演奏稍有不慎跟不上腳步可相當明顯呢。以我粗淺的現場經驗以為,The Cure的音樂部分是屬於非常容易糊掉的那種,一不小心就會吉他貝斯糊成一片。但當天的聲響效果實在太棒,每個樂器都清晰分明,又不會搶了Robert Smith的風采。(PS: 當天Vocal推的可大了,他老人家可是自信十足面對高音毫不閃躲的哩!) 特別是那個吉他的痛,幾次的獨奏都好似深邃的小宇宙在旋轉。既透明又彈性十足,更十足表現了樂團的音樂性格,實在太好聽了。

若真要說有啥失望之處,應該就是我這大外行歌迷最想聽的芭樂歌“Friday I'm in Love”竟然被跳過了orz也許就像現在的R.E.M不再場場演出Everybody Hurts,對於這些老傢伙,一首又一首的熱門金曲並不是完整演出傳達的重點吧?只是,從高中廣播聽見就一直喜愛至今的無敵情歌竟無緣親耳聆聽,看來勢必會再不久的將來再臨現場,了卻這個小小的遺憾 :D

The Cure整晚共唱了37首歌,從八點半一直唱到十一點四十分包含三次安可。中間沒有任何炫麗的舞台特效和廢話,一切的故事交由音樂來說。甚至最後一曲Killing an Arab都仍展現十足的強韌和張力!雖然也許對照近期setlist有些照本宣料,並無太大意外(除了我的星期五墜入愛河 orz)但以這群老傢伙的年紀來看,仍是令人打從心底佩服。我想若是日後有朋友再考慮是否要去看現場,或對他們的現場演出有疑問的話,基本上是多慮了XD Robert Smith不會讓你失望,The Cure絕對讓你值回票價!

Lovesong


Boys Don't Cry


Setlist:

plainsong
prayers for rain
fascination street
the perfect boy
the blood
the end of the world
lovesong
to wish impossible things
pictures of you
lullaby
catch
hot hot hot
the only one
a strange day
sleep when i'm dead
push
doing the unstuck
inbetween days
just like heaven
a letter to elise
from the edge of the deep green sea
shake dog shake
wrong number
one hundred years
disintegration

Encore:

at night
m
play for today
a forest

Encore 2:

freakshow
close to me
why can't i be you?

Encore 3:

boys don't cry
jumping someone else's train
grinding halt
10:15 saturday night
killing an arab

May 20, 2008

Golden Gate Bridge & Marin Headlands Loop


來到bay area的幾個月,由於本身並沒有汽車的緣故,因此很多時候好玩有趣的美麗景點並無法一一踏足。然而就在前些時候,因緣際會在網路上找到一台大賣場的二手Schwinn登山車代步。也因此,從小只把腳踏車當作代步工具的我,興起了和大家一樣騎單車出遊的念頭。秤秤斤兩,幾個月下來大約每天騎7 miles通勤,鐵屁股應該也練成了一半,該是嘗試讓自己的登山車名副其實的時候。

稍做功課,舊金山灣區其實有著數不清的trail可以騎。從North Bay的Euruka往南騎回舊金山金門大橋的路線,更是被許多Mountain Biking的書籍評為世界級的trail之一。當然,由於時間空間更重要是金錢的限制,不可能真正挑戰類似七天六夜的行程。不過,若是挑其中一小段來入門,似乎是個不錯的選擇。更重要的是,沒有汽車的一般同學我,也有辦法挑戰呢!於是稍做準備,挑了個天氣不算太曬了周末便起了個大早出發。

目標:騎過金門大橋,征服Marin Headlands


從Yahoo總部Sunnyvale搭乘火車Caltrain出發,連車帶人一同前往舊金山市區。由於初次嘗試登山路線,擔心會騎出超過預定的時間,因此搭了禮拜六早上第一班火車。

一出車站再轉個彎,映入眼簾的便是舊金山巨人隊的主場AT&T Park。


到達舊金山市區約莫早上八點半,街上早起慢跑運動的人不算太多。沿著海岸線繼續騎,馬上可以看到舊金山另外一座連接Oakland的大橋Bay Bridge。


接下來就是舊金山著名的觀光景點,Pier 39漁人碼頭。此處也有提供腳踏車出租,各種款式任君挑選。印象中租金不是太便宜,但聽說車子好像還不錯。過了漁人碼頭開始有一小段上坡,不過由於是行人及單車專用道,騎起來倒也相當舒適。

差不多騎了約9 miles便來到了橋下。今天霧其實不小,遠眺金門大橋的拱門整座埋在霧裡,好在騎上橋後稍有好轉。不若許多玩攝影又玩單車的前輩,雖然身上只有照相手機一支,但能夠拍個幾張照片作紀念總是比較滿足。畢竟親自騎過這座舉世聞名的大橋依然相當開心!



一旁不時呼嘯而過許多專業的biker,感覺騎公路車的夥伴遠多於登山車。


過了橋後大概因為太早起床隨便吃,肚子一下子就餓了。趕緊先前往金門大橋東北方的小漁村Sausalito填飽肚子先。金門大橋高約70幾公尺,因此之後一路下坡輕鬆愉快。一路上的遠眺舊金山市的風景也很好,自己騎車的好處就是可以走走停停。在美麗的舊金山灣區,美景俯拾即是。

Sausalito現為當地人著名觀光景點。山坡地形加上ocaen view,一路上可以看到許多精緻的別墅。某些好野人的後院還自己加裝了纜車呢! 總之,窮學生就是吃個omelet配上培根與起司,打好水再次上路,前往Marin Headlands。


上面這張是出發前拍的,表情頗可愛,好像在跟我說“看啥小~” XD

剛剛愉快的下坡現在就要付出代價拉,大約40度的上坡還真是不小的負擔。橫跨101高速公路之後正式進入Marin Headlands的區域,一路上仍就是不斷的上坡。好在騎個幾英哩就會有很好的view,欣賞的舊金山灣區美景同時當然就順便小歇一會。

自己一步一腳印的騎到半山腰,如此壯觀的美景似乎更讓人為之動容。其中的樂趣,也許只有親自翻山越嶺的人才能夠體會。

上山到半路有個小插曲;稍做休息兼拍照的同時遇到一個全身裝備齊全的老外,牽著一台看起來就跑很快的Trek公路車跟我哈拉。最後他問我說是要上山還是下山,我回答上山,結果他就說那等會見囉!結果我拍完幾張照片繼續汗流浹背的上坡,結果一抬頭發現他老兄呼嘯而過下山去拉!哇靠阿度仔大哥您真是夠幽默阿~

總之,辛苦了半天堅持不下來牽車,撐了半天終於也是騎到了今天行程的最高點Hawk Hill,標高大約280公尺。值得一提的是,這塊區域在二次大戰的時候是美軍的基地,因此留有許多碉堡之類的遺跡。

到了最高點當然就是享受爽快下坡拉!此時終於感受到剎車的重要,好在單車配備的linear brakes尚稱堪用。畢竟一不小心,整個人可能就飛下山了。

下一站:Point Bonita的燈塔。

此時霧越來越大。此加上處乃屬懸岩峭壁,禁行單車自然乖乖遵守,車隨便鎖一下丟路邊繼續一探究竟。

燈塔在橋的另一端,但這座橋兩端竟然有管理員在控管?好奇上前詢問,結果聊了兩句才發現我忽略了其實很明顯的告示:湊近瞧瞧,哇靠!年久失修也太誇張了點。竟然一次只能容納兩人通過! 加上四周的大霧和懸崖峭壁,實在是很難得又特別的景觀和體驗。

離開很恐怖的懸崖峭壁,繼續前往下一站Rodeo Beach。由於太陽公公早已躲到瞞天大霧之後,此時的海灘還滿冷的。不過仍就有稀疏的老外在衝浪。其實要是好天氣的話應該是個不錯的點,大約一公尺左右高的浪不會很碎也滿漂亮,。不過海面下是石頭還是沙子就不得而知。看著一坡又一坡的浪,不禁懷念起去年在佳樂水的狂風暴雨中衝浪。

至此,隨車攜帶的700毫升飲用水已經喝完(上坡灌超兇)。四周完全沒有任何商店的蹤跡,加上已經約莫騎了25英哩,一路上的豐碩美景也相當飽足,因此打算騎上回程的路。沒想到就在半路上發現了好像有一條off-road的trail也可以回到金門大橋。

根據當時手邊的地圖上標示,Coastal Trail是紮紮實實的dirt road and single-track。而且這段小路應該是往北的Bobcat Loop一起服用,難度等級是四顆星difficult!當時的我又累又渴,又不確定這條路會不會繞遠路,而且我有的只是一台大賣場的21段變速二手車 orz 老實說真不應該貿然前進。但是,也許就是這種挑戰未知的興奮感覺淹沒了一切,問問自己:難道不會想知道山頭的另一邊是會通到哪嗎?

所以當然就硬著頭皮騎下去了。中間一度超累超想放棄,而且路上不時有蛇和怪蟲出沒。但是好奇心驅使著意志力,終究是用力給他騎上去。想想還真的很冒險,畢竟我這個amateur要是有個閃失我就飛下山了。中間的上下坡也讓我體驗到off-road完全是另外一個世界的體驗:刺激、有趣、挑戰未知。當然同時也許要多出平地柏油路數倍的強大意志力。(當然也有可能是我已經累了,所以覺得困難度較一般爬坡上升數倍)

最後這段off-road就這樣起起伏伏,全長5.7公里的trail至少又爬了200多公尺。最後到走完時幸好沒有走冤枉的回頭路,畢竟已經超累超渴,再不找水喝就要掛在路上拉!希望不久之後能再次來挑戰全套的off-road路線!

最後當然就是騎原路回火車站搭車回家,最後真是累到兩隻腿都不是自己的了,哈。也許這就是騎車的魅力,那種充實滿足的感覺實在難以取代。下火車時一時興起,把手機放在座墊上當腳架拍下這張照片XD。同時也為自己今天的旅程畫下一個平安的休止符。


檢討:

服裝,我實在太過於不專業。今天一路上只有我一個人穿長褲。不過當初這麼做也是想一來要是摔車少點皮肉傷;二來海邊橋上其實很冷,要是騎車騎到感冒就得不償失了。只是今天過後似乎還ok,倒是上半身除了防風外套,應該要為滿身大汗的騎乘多準備毛巾和更換的衣物才是。

補給,由於我只有一個人,所以飲水和簡單補給品應該自己多準備一些。騎車騎到口乾舌燥真的太痛苦了!只是完全沒想到明明是觀光的景點,一堆人騎單車的地方,沿路竟然沒有任何的商店和販賣機,唯一看到的旅客中心也關門了。

裝備,大賣場的二手車就不用說,我完全是一股信念相信著Schwinn這個老牌子應該還ok(雖然這麼說,這台車官網可是完全找不到)。然後由於沒有任何夥伴同行,打氣筒和替換內胎簡單工具也應該要準備才是?


最後,今天約40英哩總共爬了約1800英呎的過程,也許在高手眼裡只是牛刀小試。不過對我來說卻是騎單車的一大步!希望後還有機會挑戰更多不同的trail!


References:

Wikipedia
Tour San Francisco:Marin Headlands
Two-wheel Drive:Sunday at the Marin Headlands
The SF Insider:Top 5 Biking Trails in Marin
Bike the Bridge!Maps and Guide